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Saturday, April 25, 2009

2009 Batanes Trip - Day 5: April 25


The van was full when Uncle Lou, Aunt Dolly and Aunt Veny brought Bee, Sam's mom, Sam and I to the airport.  Aunt Fe and her sister Aunt Pacing met us at the airport to say goodbye.  Aunt Fe brought some garlic for me to bring home, as well as Aryes tree seedlings, which my mom requested.  I ended up having three bags of garlic - one from Aunt Zita, one from Aunt Fe, and one which I bought from the market yesterday.  Aunt Dolly thought I was crazy to ask garlic from two aunts and still buy some from the market.  Well...to be honest, I wasn't sure if those aunts would give me garlic to bring home. Ha ha ha!


Met four classmates of my mom at the airport.  I ended up calling my mom from my cellphone just so she could talk to them.


I must bring mom back here just so she could reconnect with family and relatives.

2009 Batanes Trip - Day 4: April 24

Bee arranged with Chico for another dive early morning, this time in Mahatao.  It has to be early morning because there should be 24 hours from the time one surfaces to the water to the time one flies the skies.


Bee took these photos from her Mahatao dive:



Interesting to note that the undersea terrain reflects the topside terrain.  The Basco underwater pictures showed a lot of rock, and Basco is a hilly place.  Mahatao on the other hand has lots of white beaches and the underwater terrain is also sandy white.


With Bee diving, we started our Batan sightseeing trip without her.



We first headed north to Tukon, Basco ... that high place where Radar Tukon, Basco lighthouse, and Fundacion Pacita could be found.  Tukon is actually an Ivatan word that means hills.


When we arrived at Fundacion Pacita, the hotel guests were eating breakfast, so it would be rude to be going inside at that time. 


We just took pictures outside while Aunt Dolly, Aunt Veny and Uncle Lou chatted with Dina Abad.  They told her that they were surprised to find out that there is scuba diving in Batanes.  Apparently, Ms. Abad already knows Chico makes a living guiding tourists who want to scuba dive in Batanes, and work on conserving certain sites gets help from the Zobels who like visiting Batanes.  Talk then turned to developing tourism ...  and I heard Ms. Abad suggest that Aunt Dolly set up some type of bike rental place for the tourists.  Aunt Dolly wasn't up for it.


Near Fundacion Pacita is Tukon Chapel, which was also built by the Abads.


We passed by Basco Lighthouse but it was early morning so it was locked and we couldn't climb up.  There was this English guy who I saw earlier walking in the market who was going around Batanes on his own.  He got to talking with Aunt Dolly and told her that if he liked the place he would return with his friends.  He asked Aunt Dolly if he could join us around Batan island.  Aunt Dolly told him that our trip isn't the usual Batanes tour and he should probably join the official tours. We left him at Basco lighthouse... I think he actually walked up there because I didn't see any other vehicle.


Bee, who wandered around Basco on her own with the help of a tricycle she rented in Mahatao, was able to enter Fundacion Pacita.  Proof that earlier is not always better.  She took these pictures:



Back in town, and wondering where Bee is, we passed by Basco Cathedral which was undergoing renovation.


We then passed by Aunt Fe's house.  We were there the night before when Aunt Fe invited Bee, Sam, Sam's mom and I to dinner at the Pension Ivatan Restaurant with the PNB manager and a couple of her staff.  It was dark and I wasn't able to see the house clearly so I wanted to see how it looks like in the daytime.  What we were able to see that night was Pension Ivatan Hometel and Restaurant,  which was situated across the street from the house and is built on the lot she owns and leased to Pension Ivatan.  She told me that had I decided to stay in Basco instead of Mahatao, she would have set us up there.


The old house Aunt Fe lives in was the same house my mom grew up in.  Being on a hill, the front door is actually on the upper level (where Aunt Fe stays), and one goes down to get to the lower level - which is where my cousin Glen and his family lives.  Aunt Fe has rented out some of the rooms.


After bidding goodbye to Aunt Fe, we drove through the market where Aunt Dolly was approached by a woman selling some old Batanes gold jewelry.  Families who need money would sell their old jewelry through people like said lady who in turn knows which people might be interested in buying.  Sam's mom initially wanted to buy some pieces but she found the prices a bit high than what she was willing to pay.


While waiting for Aunt Dolly and Sam's mom to finish looking at the jewelry for sale, I noticed that although there were lots of fish and vegetables for sale in the market, there was not much pork or beef.  Since people here only get pork or beef when a farmer slaughters a pig or cow, what one would actually see on the stalls are announcements of when a pig or cow would be slaughtered so that those interested would come to the market on said date.


Before leaving Basco, we passed by a goldsmith where Aunt Veny and Aunt Dolly picked up some pieces they had custom made.  We were back in Mahatao in time to eat lunch at Aunt Dolly's house.


After lunch, this time with Bee in the group, we headed southward, first to see the rest of Mahatao then to see the other towns.  We revisited Homoron Blue Lagoon to take more pictures, then passed by Mahatao's White Beach.  I wish we could stay longer but we were on a tight schedule.



The town after Mahatao, and at the southern tip of Batan Island, was Ivana.  My grandpa used to be a municipal treasurer here, travelling from Basco to work everyday.  The new Ivana bridge is parallel to an older bridge that was built during the Spanish time.  The old bridge is one of the few Spanish era bridges that are still standing.  The oldest house still standing in Batanes, the Dakay home, could also be found in Ivana.  Further down the road is Radiwan Point and the San Jose Church, which is large and very close to the sea that the church is very visible from the boats plying the Ivana-Sabtang route.


Nearby is the Honesty Cafe.  It actually looks like any sari-sari store or carinderia one finds in Metro Manila.  The only difference is that no one mans the store.  There is just a dropbox, and a list of items available with their prices.  Ivatans expect people to be honorable enough to pay for whatever item they take from the store.


Next to Ivana, and situated on the other side of the island, was Uyugan, where the first mass was held in Batanes.  The place has some huts for those who want to swim at the beach.



Somewhere in the middle of these towns is Racuh a Payaman, the wide communal pastureland.  Every farmer that uses this land also helps in maintaining it.  Because of the green rolling hills, this is also called "Marlboro Country".


Since we were on the other side of the island, and Uncle Lou wanted to be on safer roads before it gets dark (his eyes aren't good as they used to be, so it would be dangerous for him to be driving), we took the Interior Road to get back to Mahatao. This is a cross country dirt road, and therefore kinda rough, but it was quicker than going around the island. 


Back in Mahatao, Aunt Dolly arranged for two masseuses to drop by and give massages to Bee and Sam's mom.  After a few minutes' rest, spending some time walking around the neighborhood and watching the school kids play softball during break, I joined the rest (sans Bee and Sam's mom) in piling back into the van to head to Samurong Cybercafe, the internet cafe in Basco run by my cousin Joy.  This is because Aunt Dolly's Globe connection at home was down and Aunt Veny wanted to check her e-mail account.  Passed by the only gas station in the province, which is owned by Petron, and learned that prices per liter here are usually around PHP10 higher than in Metro Manila because of shipping cost.  We spent about an hour at the cybercafe before returning to Mahatao.  Stopped by the Mahatao Viewdeck (again) for some more pictures.



Before dinner, Sam and I walked at the beach behind Aunt Dolly's house and took pictures of the sunset.  Aunt Zita dropped by to give me stuff to bring back to Metro Manila - woven keychains and a bottle covered by basketweave, both made by her son, and some garlic from their fields.  There was also a bottle of turmeric (powdered yellow ginger) from Lola Loleng, which Ivatans mix into their rice.


It was a tiring day, like yesterday, but it was fun.

2009 Batanes Trip - Day 3: April 23

Aunt Dolly arranged for Bee, Sam, Sam's Mom, and I to join a tour group to Sabtang Island.  The tour group was coming from Basco and would pass by Mahatao on its way to the port in Ivana where we would be taking the boat to Sabtang.  The driver made a brief stop at the "Blue Lagoon" so we could take pictures.  In the olden days, the friars/priests used the clear waters at this semi-secluded place to take their baths.


I kinda slept halfway through the boat trip to Sabtang.  It's official, I could sleep through any trip - whether it's in a car, bus, plane or a boat.


We landed at Sabtang's port which is located at the island's Centro.



Was able to take a few pictures at Centro while waiting for the whole group to disembark from the boat and load into the jeepneys.  The original tour group was packed into one jeepney.  We shared our jeepney with a family of four.  That meant there were only eight of us in a jeepney that could seat around sixteen to twenty people.


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First jeepney stop was in Savidug, a town near the coast lined with houses made the old way - stone and lime.



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After that we went up the hills of Savidug and stopped at the Limestone cliffs  where the view of the sea was spectacular.  The guide said that some tourists, seeing the big waves, tried to surf there once ... but didn't take into account that the beach was mostly stone and crashing into it would be painful.  Idiots.



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Next stop was Chamantad Hills with its breath-taking view.  This place was used as a location in the shooting of a movie ... not sure which movie it was though - the Richard Gomez and Dawn Zulueta one, or the Iza Calzado and Ken Chu movie.



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The next town we went to was Chavayan, which was also near the coast and where there is a shop set up by the basket weavers that sells woven sandals, small baskets, and the famous headdress worn by Ivatan women - vakul.  I don't know if the guys buying the vakul and trying them on are aware that it's a woman's headwear, and that the counterpart for males is the talugong which looks very much like the  salakot with some kind of collar/shoulder cover.  I think it's harder to find a talugong for sale than it is to find a vakul.


Other stuff I saw being sold are the glass floats from Chinese fishing nets that the rough seas have torn away and brought to the shores of Batanes.


I also saw old fashioned boat pulleys which I don't think is still commonly used elsewhere in the country.



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The jeepneys brought the tour group back to Centro where we had lunch in the school auditorium.  We were supposed to go to the lighthouse and the white beach after lunch, but since it was raining, we only got to visit the Sabtang lighthouse as the jeepneys could not handle the already muddy road leading to the white beach.



The seas were rougher on the way back to Ivana, and some actually got wet when the waves crashed into the boat.  There were some squeals of fright by other passengers along with Bee's squeals of excitement at seeing flying fish.  I didn't see the fish.  I was sleeping when she started shouting.  The fish were gone when I opened my eyes.


Sabtang is a part of old Batanes that has survived modernization.  I could imagine that Basco and Mahatao used to look like this ... rows and rows of stone and lime houses with vegetable gardens all around.  It makes sense that it would be Sabtang that would challenge time ... it is said that many people of this island were courageous enough to challenge authority during the Spanish era that they had to be shipped to Ivana so that the Spaniards could keep a closer eye on them.

2009 Batanes Trip - Day 2: April 22, Album 1


Sam and her mom Norma arrived a day later.  We picked them up from Basco airport, and had another photo session at the Mahatao Viewdeck before going back to the Byers house and depositing their bags at their room. 


Showed Sam around.  This time, the priest was in the church when we dropped by, so we had some sort of tour guide.  Took more pictures near the stone houses.  One of the residents saw us taking a picture of their house and we asked permission ... they actually invited Sam and I to go into their house.  We declined and said we're good just taking pics outside.


Bee had already contacted Chico Domingo, the only licensed Diver in Batanes, to take her diving in Basco.  Sam and I hitched a ride on Chico's truck and since the two of us had no plans of diving, he dropped us off at Vavayat bridge while he and Bee got on the boat to take them to the dive site.


While Bee and Chico were diving, Sam and went to the beach and took some pictures.  Some strong waves actually had Sam rolling on the sand ... although it may not look like it in the pictures we took.


Bee's pictures of the dive below.  Uncle Lou, Aunt Dolly and Aunt Veny were excited to see them - they have never dived and prior to Bee's contacting Chico, they didn't know there are people diving for recreation in Batanes.


2009 Batanes Trip - Day 1: April 21, Album 2


After lunch, Aunt Dolly brought us to Lola Loleng's house, which was also near the church. 


Their house was one of the old stone and lime houses with thick walls, and separate buildings that serve as the kitchen and bathroom/toilet.  There are no doors for the rooms inside; instead, curtains are hung over the arches.  Slippers and shoes are left at the main door.  The stone floor's clean enough that one can sit there if there are not enough seats.


Lola Loleng is the only surviving sibling of Lola Cion.  Although her eyes and ears are weak due to old age, she could still hear and see.


Other pictures in this set:  Aunt Dolly's house, her neighbors' houses, freshly harvested onions and garlic left in front of the houses to dry under the sun.

2009 Batanes Trip - Day 1: April 21, Album 1


 

Aunt Dolly, Uncle Lou, Aunt Veny, Aunt Fe, Glen, his wife Girlie and their kids were at the airport to welcome me and my friend Bee when we landed at Basco airport.  I must admit, this is the first time I've felt really welcome in an airport ... and it was easy to feel at home, although I have not really learned to speak my mother's tongue.  Good thing Ivatans speak Tagalog and English as well :-)

 

After we had our baggages loaded up in Uncle Lou's van, since we are staying at their place, we got in the vehicle and headed off to Mahatao, my grandma's hometown, and where the Estandantes have lived for decades.

 

We had a brief stopover at the Mahatao Viewdeck, which is along the winding road from Basco to Mahatao proper.  Bee and I took some pictures there.

 

At Aunt Dolly's house, Bee and I chose the room we would be sleeping in then we stepped out with our cameras to explore the place.  The house was very near the Mahatao Port and the San Carlos Borromeo Church.  Took some pictures of the tatayas, or fishing boats, then went inside the church which was newly renovated.